Embracing Shrinkage: Understanding the Science of Textured Hair

Have you ever tried a 'wash and go' or twist-out, and after an hour or two your hair was puffy? Gone are face-framing defined curls and waves, and you are now left with a shrunken afro.

Natural hair has its own unique features, and one of the most frequently discussed aspects is hair shrinkage. For individuals with textured hair, humid conditions can speed up the degree of hair shrinkage and can either leave you fascinated or frustrated. However, understanding how hair shrinkage relates to humidity and healthy hair can change this perspective. Let's explore the science behind it and learn to embrace and manage hair shrinkage.

What is Hair Shrinkage?

Hair shrinkage refers to the contraction of natural hair length after air drying or exposure to moisture. This effect is due to the hair's elasticity. Hair elasticity is the ability of hair to stretch and return to its original shape without breaking. Those with curly or coily hair can experience significant shrinkage, which may range between 50% to 75% of their hair's original length.

How Shrinkage Affects Natural Hair

Hair shrinkage will usually make your hair appear shorter than its actual length. Depending on the degree of shrinkage you experience, it can be challenging to manipulate your hair into certain styles without stretching your hair with either heat, plaits or twists. Another common challenge with tighter curls and coils is that they can be more susceptible to tangling and single strand knots.

Shrinkage, however, is essential because it often indicates healthy, well-hydrated hair. For instance, uneven curl patterns or damaged strands may not shrink due to heat or chemical damage.

The Role & Impact of Humidity

Humidity greatly influences how hair behaves, particularly for people with curly or textured hair. In humid weather, the increased moisture in the air affects the water balance in your hair, which can lead to more pronounced shrinkage as hair cuticles swell. The average air humidity in tropical regions ranges from 70-100% relative humidity, making the air extremely moist.

When hair absorbs moisture from humid air, it interacts with the curl pattern, sometimes resulting in frizz due to the swelling of the hair's cuticle. This increases the hair's porosity and as a result, styles like twist-outs, braid-outs and silk presses do not last as long. Though this can be frustrating, it’s crucial to understand that this response is natural and part of your hair's chemistry.

Shrinkage and Hair Porosity

Hair porosity is determined by how easily your hair absorbs and retains moisture and largely influences hair shrinkage.

As annoying as shrinkage can be, it is an indicator that your hair is healthy. It is a sign that your hair's elasticity and overall structure is not compromised by heat damage or broken bonds that cannot revert to your natural curl pattern.

Low porosity hair usually takes longer to absorb water because of how tightly packed the cuticle layer of the hair is. This may result in low porosity hair taking longer to shrink. However, once the hair is hydrated, it can lead to significant shrinkage.

Conversely, high porosity hair absorbs water quickly and may shrink quicker when exposed to moisture. Healthy hair that has normal porosity is resilient and will exhibit even shrinkage along the hair strand.

Tips for Managing Shrinkage

Understanding how humidity impacts the hair can help you adjust your styling and product choices for the best results. Using anti-humidity styling products such as, styling gels, anti-humidity sprays or firm hold mousses can lock curls in place, allowing for longer-lasting styles despite the moisture in the air.

Plaiting your hair in large sections at night, coupled with wearing a satin scarf or bonnet can also help you to stretch your hair naturally, making it easier to style on mornings. Another important aspect is ensuring that your hair is well moisturized, since dry hair is more likely to react to high humidity, speeding up the rate of shrinkage and reversion. This means that dry split ends are also prone to shrinkage and should be trimmed regularly.

Hopefully, understanding the connection between hair shrinkage, humidity, and healthy hair will not only allow you to appreciate and embrace your shrinkage, but it will help you to effectively style your hair without compromising its health.